After eleven days in India, we now stand in front of the Taj Mahal, perhaps the most iconic emblem of the country. This monument of love is located in Agra, a city that has more to see than its small size would suggest.
Agra was a capital once, in the sixteenth century to be precise. As such, fine examples of Mughal architecture remain – the Taj Mahal is one of them. Since most are mausoleums, the city is a metropolis of sorts.
Having taken satisfying pictures on my last visit, I did not concentrate much on the photography this time. A couple of Agra shots are included with this entry, with all others present on my flickr account.
What was wackier this time, was a nasty quarrel with a rickshaw wallah followed by some spontaneous hitchhike.
That day, we wanted to go to Sikandra to visit Ackbar‘s mausoleum, about 12 Kilometers from our guesthouse. We estimated that 120 Rupees for the return ride would be a fair price, yet probably impossible to obtain from the ruthless Agra drivers. With everyone visiting the city of the Taj, these guys do not drop their prices, they simply wait for the next tourist to pass by. We decided that we would go as high as 150 max.
As sure as Ganesh is the lord of the roads, the starting price was… 500 Rupees! We walk away, they want to bargain.
- 400 then, because it’s far. It’s not far, it’s 12 Kilometers.
- 400 then, because petrol is expensive. Yeah, but it’s not 400 and it’s still not far.
- 400, because I wait for you. Not long, man, it’s just one building in a park.
- 350 last price. No can do.
- What’s your price, then? 150. Incredulous laughs. You will never get that price.
Fine, we walk away. Five minutes later we are down to 300, then 250. We still want 150. One driver accepts! We get in… then he drops us 100 Meters later when he realises he’s not liking the deal. Fine. We go to one big group of rickshaws. 250. Nope. 200! Nope, 150. 200! 150. And…yes! An older driver accepts. We make him repeat: 150, return, wait time. Yes, yes, he says.
We get to Sikandra. He wants half now. I reply that we will pay him his 150 on last drop. Here we go… He looks at me eith eyes wide open and wants 150 now, 150 later. 300!!! We get angry. He pretends this was not agreed, the deal being 150 now, 150 later. No way, that would defeat the whole struggle to get our more than fair price! We nag, he starts shouting. We shout back and decide to pay half, right there and then, and let him go. Damn, we don’t even have change for that… Note to self: have change at all times.
Marta stays with the man while I go change some notes. I come back as quickly as I can and give him his due, which of course he does not want to take and keeps on shouting. We have enough, I put the money in his shirt pocket and tell him to keep it or leave unpaid. He curses us for at least two generations and gives up on his scam. So much fuss!
We enter the mausoleum precinct. Lawns and trees surround the building, and all this lush greenery is home to many animals: monkeys, deers, little birds and peacocks… The place is filled with tranquility. Inside the mausoleum, a man sings a prayer in honor of Ackbar, and his voice echoes through the walls. Everything here inspires serenity and reverence.
The pleasant visit cheers us back up, we head towards the exit. New rickshaw wallahs see us. We want to go back to the Taj area for 75. Better to believe in Santa, they all want 200…
We decide to start walking back to Agra, hoping some wallahs will come to their senses. A five wheeler speeds past us and two youngsters wave hello. I wave and smile back… They stop.
They stop! We trot towards them, they wanna give us a ride. Sure thing, bro! One of them goes at the back and we sit in front with the driver. His English is not great but we manage. Good will does wonders.
We make a quick stop by their garage, where everyone is surprised to see us. We say goodbye to our driver and the other guy takes over. He drives us past the fort area, then we continue on foot. It’s still some walk till our guesthouse, but on we go. We make it to a market, full of camels and little stalls. We haven’t been in this area yet, but locals point us to a shortcut through the wilderness. We carry on, and finally make it.
What a day. From haggling turned nasty to a healthy hike, it was definitely a different way to experience Agra!
Tags: agra, india, rising suns, travel